Dunderi... by Gennaro Contaldo

A previous post, (6/6/12 http://andyeatsinfrance.blogspot.com/2012/06/everybody-who-produces-food-produces.html) saw me talking about a lovely quote from the mini-series "Two Greedy Italians" which aired on the BBC a few years ago now. Its two series (the word British TV uses for what we know as "seasons,") consisting of 4 episodes each, follow the exploits of two Italian chefs who have lived as expats in the UK... only to return to their motherland as seasoned vets of the cooking game- ready to eat and share their observations with the world. Sounds like a tried and true premise for cooking shows, right? It is. But these two men have so much character and poise that their true and honest selves radiate from screen immediately, sharing parts of their Italian culinary souls with their international foodie audience.

When you have a moment (or a few hours) to spare, this show is not to be missed. And if you have even more time, I highly recommend their recipes. The following gem is right out of their first episode. It took us about 35-40 minutes in all to prepare, and was a quick and hearty meal. So full of flavor, but still concise enough to prepare during the mid-week rush.

I always hesitate when watching cooking shows... "Should I try to replicate their recipes?" "Will they actually be that good?" "What if they're making it look easy, but it's actually not?"...
These are all valid questions I think, and ones I've asked myself many times before. Nevertheless, I usually take the plunge anyway.
            It is better to have cooked and lost, than never to have cooked at all! Right?


But, with Gennaro and Antonio's recipes, we actually didn't need to take a "plunge" per se... It's like trusting your very own Italian uncles implicitly.

                                                                                           ~ ~ ~

Without further ado...
You can find the recipe within this post or by clicking the following link:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/ricotta_dumplings_01916
Or you can also just watch the first episode. You'll find all the inspiration you need in those first few minutes.

The recipe on the site says it serves 4. I would say that is reasonable... but a more realistic statement would be to say that it best serves 3 very hungry (or greedy) people.
Also, one final note: Us Americans are not always used to following recipes that express the needed quantity of an ingredient in grams. If you have a scale, that would be the ideal tool with which to translate these weight measures. If not, the following conversions can work to give you a general idea:

For the flour: 125 g = 1 cup / 200 g = 1.6 cups / or 250 g = 2 cups
For the ricotta: 250 g = 1 cup

Ingredients

For the dumplings

• 200g/7oz  "00" or all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
• 225g/8oz ricotta
• 3 free-range egg yolks
• 30g/1oz parmesan, freshly grated
• pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

• 6 tbsp olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled, cut into thick slices
• 1 chili, sliced
• 2 x 400g/14oz cans tinned plum tomatoes, each tomato chopped in half
• few basil leaves

Preparation method

1. Mix the flour, ricotta, egg yolks, parmesan, nutmeg and seasoning together in a large bowl to form a soft, moist dough.
2. Tip the mixture out onto a floured work surface and knead for 3-5 minutes. Roll the dough into a long, thin sausage shape, then cut into dumplings about 2cm/1in long.
3. Cook the dumplings for 3-4 minutes in a large saucepan of salted boiling water.
4. Meanwhile for the sauce, heat the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the garlic and chilli for one minute, then remove the pan from the heat and add the plum tomatoes.
5. Return the pan to the heat, bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes.
6. Remove the dumplings from the pan with a slotted spoon and add them to the tomato sauce.
7. To serve, spoon the dumplings onto a serving plate and sprinkle over the basil leaves.

Simple but not simplistic, is how I would describe good old-fashioned home cooking. These gnocchi-like dumplings fit that description beautifully.

  

Let's be honest, a little wine while cooking serves as the best inspiration of all. 

`    

Soft and elastic seem to be the desired consistencies for the dough. Not too sticky, but still very malleable. 

     

It's time to shape and cut. Look at him (my great, cooking partner-in-crime) go! 

We made them about 3/4" thick. 

Once the dunderi are ready and floured, prepare the quick sauce. Above, hot oil and garlic are ready to welcome the canned tomatoes into the saucepan. Gennaro is right; this is a quick and tasty way to make a sauce on-the-go. The searing oil will cook the tomato chunks and sauce quickly and evenly. 

We had a big pot of water on the burner simultaneously, and once the water reached a boil, the dumplings were added. True enough, after 3 minutes, the dumplings began to swiftly rise to the top. One by one! The ricotta and egg cook ever so quickly. 

After the tomatoes have absorbed the oil/garlic, add the boiled dunderi and basil. The chubby dumplings will absorb some of the tomato flavor too. Stir just enough, until the basil is incorporated into the sauce.

And there you have it. Prontissimo!!!

Finish off with more (a lot more) Parmesan and the truly comforting dish is ready. 

Go ahead, give it a try!

Cliff's Chinatown stop #2

My coworker Cliff recommended Taiwan Café, located at 34 Oxford St, Boston MA 02111 as the next stop in his list of must-try places. He likes simple comfort food, and Taiwan Cafe definitely delivers. 

I wrote a previous entry about Cliff and mentioned his childhood experiences in 1950s Chinatown. He is such an interesting person to talk to. He has what seems like a limitless store of funny and poignant stories. For him, Taiwan Café is not necessarily the one closest to his roots (he is Cantonese and Taishanese) but he used to bring his volleyball team here to eat when he used to coach, and it has remained a staple in his local restaurant rotation. 

After dining here, I understand why. It is reasonably priced (I was actually shocked when the bill came) and the portions are hefty without compromising taste. 

Overall, the dishes here are Taiwanese, with a few other Asian cuisines added in for variety, I presume (see the dumpling basket below.) I noticed that a lot of the Taiwanese dishes included some sort of egg component with some making this protein the main attraction.

                      

In the photo above (please excuse the grainy photos... my phone did not take very well to the lighting in the restaurant) you'll see two of the dishes that came out first. The one on the right is a breaded pan-fried chicken breast (it had good flavor, though not a wow for me) served with a side dish of very tender cabbage, rice, and a tea egg (my favorite!). These tea eggs are usually boiled then peeled and reboiled in tea and sold as street food. This one in particular (according to our lovely server) was steeped in tea for a good long while. It was incredibly fragrant, and a surprisingly good accompaniment to the chicken and rice. 

Then, the dish you see on the left is a traditional oyster egg pancake. It had scallions, mushrooms and was slathered with a healthy portion of oyster sauce. Now, here is the real kicker: while the top was crispy and more of a traditional egg texture, the bottom layer was a clear, glutenous egg and flour pancake that was so sticky and gooey I almost couldn't swallow it. The photo below shows it in slightly better detail. 

I appreciated this egg-based concoction for what it was but the texture was so unlike any preparation I have ever had, and that was hard to get used to. It was so gooey, it got stuck in my throat a couple of times. I looked around the restaurant, and a few other bright-eyed patrons were enjoying this same dish, and energetically attacking the stringy egg mixture with the same gleefulness I would have while eating melted mozzarella in a panino for example. 

Scrambled eggs, beef and fresh tomatoes on a bed of rice. Classic dish, and something I would never think of having for dinner. There was a sweetness to it (provided by an oyster sauce-like gravy) that was so hearty and rich. 

For me, this last bamboo basket was the perfect and climactic end to the meal. These delicate xialongbao (or colloquially known in English as soup dumplings or soup buns) were so flavorful. These were filled with the traditional minced pork filling minus the sometimes-used crab meat. The broth in the dumplings was not too salty, but with just enough fatty-ness and aroma. I drizzled mine with some rice vinegar. The acidity of the Chinkiang vinegar was a great complement to the rich pork.

How is that for a comfort meal?

Macarons

Light, airy, slightly chewy, decadent, and refined. 

Les Macarons. 

From left to right: pistachio, raspberry, lemon, cassis (blackcurrant), pink peppercorn (my fave), and salted caramel. 

On my recent trip to France, I decided to spend some real time enjoying these little treats, more so than when I lived there. I was in real tourist mode, and it was so worth it! It's amazing to me how the macarons really do seem to embody the beauty and grace of Paris. 

Ladurée's new seasonal Pink peppercorn flavor. It was sweet and spicy all at once, and the filling was creamier than most.

Ahh, to be by the Seine... the banks of the river lined with book sellers and pedestrians, with the Louvre to the right... 

Such is a scene that merits the délicatesse of macarons. I happened to get mine today from Ladurée. A "maison de macarons et fabricant des douceurs" that is known the world over for their macarons but also for other sweets which they produce with the utmost respect for quality. In my experience, though these macarons are exceptionally well made; I have also tried delicious macarons from local pâtisséries in Nantes and in other towns across France. Cities like Nancy and Boulay in the Lorraine region have their own claim to the modern macaron as we know it. In the city of Amiens, pâtissières make their macarons with more of an almond paste and fruit flavors.

Even Ladurée can make a less than perfect-looking macaron. But believe me, the taste was still impeccable. 

So now to answer a question I often get asked: Have I ever made my own?
The answer is a rotund no.
It is not for lack of will or interest, but in my opinion, they are some of the hardest pastries to make, needing a tremendous attention to detail, precise calculations, and above all, patience.
I will try one day, when I have time to spare. Say, a long weekend or vacation time... and you readers will be the first to know how it goes!

They are indeed beautiful, and très français.
_________________________________________________________

So with that being said, how do we feel about the photo below?

KO Pies, mate!

Nestled in the Boston Shipyard is one location of the brilliant KO Catering and Pies. 

Address: Boston Harbord Shipyard

256 Marginal St. Building 16

East Boston, MA 0212

617.418.5234

It was a sunny day toward the end of summer, and this was the perfect time to enjoy their welcoming outdoor patio. In order to reach this hidden jewel of a locale, one must take either the MBTA water ferry, or a water taxi. It's worth the trip out here. The gentleman at the counter was beyond great, going out of his way to explain everything on the menu to us (we also arrived early for lunch. It was 11:45 ish and we were one of the only parties there, hence the personalized attention.) Though I doubt their level of customer service diminishes just with the crowds. 

Can you say YUM? When I ordered a side of mushy peas, the friendly KO employee (I forget his name!) suggested that I try my braised lamb shank pie with mash, mushy peas and gravy on top. Yes Please. One of those for me. You can see it the photo above. Pure, delightfult, hearty flavors. The pie in the back is the curried vegetable pie. Also very flavorful. Though minus the mash, pea, and gravy toppings. 

Close-up of my pie. I think that after having it with the tasty gravy and peas, I won't ever be able to have one of their pies "plain" in the future. The crust on these pies is a good balance between flaky and buttery, but very sturdy. It helped to have the gravy for the slightly drier parts of the crust. dip dip dip! 

Their menu is expansive, and offers salads, sandwiches, and traditional Australian munchies and desserts. We wanted to have pies because, well, that's what they're known for, but next time maybe I'll order a pies and something else off their menu. Their "Spicy Shrimp on the Barbie" or their "Grilled Fish Sandwich" caught my eye. 

Above is a "Lamington" which is a cube of sponge cake, covered in a nice dark chocolate, then dipped in dried coconut. The sponge cake was a little dry for my liking, but the chocolate and coconut texture made up for it. A good end to the meal. 

The view from our water taxi. Our bellies were full, and making our way back to the city and look at the Boston skyline! So beautiful from this angle. 

So, lesson of the day: if you're craving meat pies (or veggie pie) head to the KO! 

a fork and knife tale

How do YOU cut your food?

http://www.slate.com/articles/life/culturebox/2013/06/fork_and_knife_use_americans_need_to_stop_cutting_and_switching.html

I have to say, once you get a little practice cutting then bringing the food up to your mouth with your left hand (for us right-handers) it's actually a much easier way to eat. After living in France and seeing how much more smoothly people ate without having to put the fork and knife down before switching hands; I decided to try it. I was shaky at first, but now... I'm unstoppable!

Give it a try!

Cuchi Cuchi

Stop. Just Stop.

Drop everything, stop what you are doing, step away from your computer, get your car keys and/or your T-Pass and head, no RUN, to Central Square. Some of the best mini-dishes in the world await you.

Seriously. GO. you can always come back to this blog entry later.

...


Okay, if you've decided to carry on reading, let me say that I do not exaggerate.
Have I tried every item on the menu? NO.
Do I think every dish is the best in the world. NO.
But two of the mini-dishes we tried  (the duck crêpe, and the mushroom risotto) are two of the BEST, most flavorful plates I have ever tried in my life.

How is that for a rave review?

Cuchi cuchi cuuuu!

The Duck à L'orange Crêpes with citrus and fennel vinaigrette. 

Rivaled any crêpe I ever had in France. My lovely dinner partner kept commenting on the faces I kept making... pure food enjoyment. I commented on how good it was after every bite. I never do that. That's saying something people. You must try this now. 

Meh. To tell you the truth, I don't quite remember what these were. Not that they weren't their own version of yummy, but they couldn't help but be eclipsed by the crêpes and risotto. no comparison as far as I'm concerned. 

One of the few yummy and exciting concoctions we tried that evening. They're all enticing.

Oh.My.Word. 

This mushroom risotto. Molto delicioso! 

So creamy, so flavorful with the perfect risotto texture...

The Shot Glasses. 

HAHA. Yes, they are what they appear to be. Use your imagination. The kicker: They don't stand up on their own... so, you can't set it down until you've imbibed the contents. 

Le Gateau Nantais. 

This, I was not a fan of. Coming from Nantes, I know a good Gateau Nantais, and this wasn't it. Where was the frosting on top? the strong hint of rum? the buttery almond essence?

Nonetheless, this was a fair effort with substance and a hint of flavor. 

This is such a fun restaurant. The servers are all clad in retro, vintage-style clothes that are fun and unexpected. The colorful masks, lighting, and tiles all add to the fun and eclectic atmosphere which evokes a different time, a world with flair and pizzazz.

Their drinks are well known, and I wasn't disappointed, but what I would go back for are the two dishes I just completely clicked with. Pure culinary bliss. 

Head to Cuchi Cuchi and find that one dish that you won't be able to forget for the rest of your day (week, or month!)

795 Main Street, Cambridge, MA 02139 
Tel: 617.864.2929 

Dinner Sun -Wed  5:30 - 10:30 P.M.

Th-Sat until 11:00 P.M.

Bar until 12:30 A.M.

Chive Blossoms

On a recent trip to a family member's house, I was surprised to see what looked like purple dandelions on my salad plate. Upon inquiring as to what these interesting, and surely not edible flowers were, I learned that they are indeed edible and that they are the flower that grows on the chive plant.

These delicate blossoms are not only visually stunning, adding a punch of color and summertime magic to any plate, they taste great (well, for a flower, that is.) I chewed the blossom slowly and carefully, and mentally recorded the following words:
     delicate
     watery
     spicy
     slightly bitter
     onion-y (original... I know...)

These belong to the Allium family, which include leeks and garlic. According to gardeners.com, be sure to remove the central stem from the cluster of flowers in order to release the separate florets.

Next time you're making a salad, dip, or any other fresh and savory dish, consider adding these attractive blooms to the mix. Your guests will be wowed...

   

New Golden Gate Restaurant

66 Beach St
(between Hudson St & Oxford St) 
Boston, MA 02111

This restaurant is easy to miss... As you walk along the entrance, you notice big signs taped to the windows, making hard to see the crowds at this bustling little place. I would not have known about it had not been for my colleague Cliff, who grew up in Chinatown before the Mass Pike came in, forever altering his vibrant community. 

He has shared stories with me of the "old" Golden Gate- the original restaurant that was such a "hole in the wall" that at one point in its history did actually have an actual hole in one of the walls as result of somebody's fierce punch. Eventually the owners sold the place, and the new owners added "new" to the name, in what I believe was in the hopes of preserving some of the original's legacy.
Stories like these are so valuable and should not be forgotten. 

Per Cliff's suggestion, the three of us made our way to the New Golden Gate Restaurant to sample what Cliff calls some of the best Chinese comfort food around. I heard some of Cliff's native Cantonese and to more specific, Taishanese- which originated in the South Guangdong Province. After a 2 minutes conversation with our young waiter in Taishanese, Cliff announced he had order a few dishes for us to sample... some of his favorites. 

About ten minutes later, my other colleague and I were stunned when 6 huge plates of food arrived, all heaping and vibrant. This was a big meal for 3 people... We had a big food mountain to climb and we were certainly up for the challenge. 

The following photos show a few of the dishes I was so lucky to try! (some of them aren't necessarily on the menu...)

Salt and Pepper Calamari. This had a definite kick, and my limited tolerance for all things spicy hindered my enjoyment of this dish... I wish I could eat more spicy food! The few bites I did have before the heat kicked in were absolutely delicious! Perfectly fried, and crunchy- this is a winner!

This was the star of the meal for me, and the reason Cliff has been raving about the New Golden gate restaurant. He remembers eating this dish as a young chap at the old Golden Gate, and due to popular demand and tradition, the new restaurant serves it up as well. This my friends is true fusion cuisine. Behold! Roast Beef in Black Bean Sauce. 

Those are indeed tomatoes you'll see in there. The sause is thick, creamy, and very zesty. Not an usual dish at a Chinese restaurant in China, but the flavors marry well together. This is a truly American Chinatown creation, and its simplicity is also its brilliance. 

The Roast Beef was tender and just a tiny bit pink on the inside The Black bean sauce is Cliff's favorite, and now I see why. 

Chinese Broccoli with just a tad of Oyster sauce drizzled on top. Love the vibrant green! Notice the Ulong tea as well. This is what we had during our meal and not just after it. 

Pan-seared chicken. Not your average crispy fried chicken. It came with a special black salt that I was told I had to lightly sprinkle on top! KFC... you have some serious competition...

Finally, they brought us a sweet black bean and tapioca liquid pudding-type soup. Mildly sweet, and surprisingly, and perfect closing for the meal... 

If you are looking for a low-key meal in Chinatown, I hope you'll check out this small, unassuming spot that packs a real punch.

Casa B

On this Blog, I sometimes talk about restaurants I've been to. I don't pretend to be a professional food critic (though that is a career path that I would certainly not object to...) but as a foodie, I am entitled to an opinion and I hope that you, the readers, will find what I have to say about a particular place useful. I want to reiterate that at the end of the day, they are just that- my opinions and that I don't necessarily write to sway you to go or not go. Even if I say something less than positive, I might even dare you to go to see if I've got my judgement right. Here we go!

Casa B
A Spanish tapas bar located at 253 Washington St. in Somerville, MA 02143. If you need to call them, reservations are possible at (617) 764-2180.

This small but cozy retaurant's ambiance was festive, young, and perfect for a group of 4. The night was full of lively chatter. We discussed both personal matters but also what new tapa the server has just placed in the middle of our table. That was always a great jumping off point for conversation. From this angle, I would suggest this as a good date or get-to-know-you spot. You'll never run out of things to talk about with new and interesting ingredients constantly making appearances in the wide array of tapas found in their menu. Luckily, our conversation was not dependent solely on the tapas, but it did help that we were a foodie group.

We started off with cocktails. Their menu is full of Spanish classics like kalimotxo and sangria, and other inspired old-time cocktails. They were strong and well prepared (though, was it just me or was the size of the glass extra small...) It didn't matter too much at the time because it's what's inside that counts, and believe me, the drinks packed a punch ;)

Classic Capirihna. very lime-y... y muy fuerte!

A spicy cocktail!

beautiful! (wish the photo wasn't so dark for you all!)

These stuffed oysters were favorite. Very flavorful, with a hint of heat.

or actually, maybe this tapa was my favorite! Chicken giblets on crusty bread. Amazing!

Now, I must say I was not crazy about this... I didn't actually realize I was eating tortilla (a thick egg and potato omelette) until I asked why he hadn't been served out tortilla yet... my friend kindly pointed out we had already had the tortilla and I was incredulous as I struggled to reconstruct the flavors I had just tasted. It was slightly cold and plantain-infused. Tasty, but confusing to me. 

 Dessert time! Tres Leches cake. This was very good! I can't compare it to my mom's Tres Leches cake, but it put up a good fight. Now you see it.

Now you don't! 

Have you ever had Tres Leches? Quite literally meaning 3 milks. Whole milk or cream, condensed milk and evaporated milk are blended and poured onto the cake slowly so that the mixture soaks into the cake. Delicious! 

Finally, this isn't food, but I thought it was so nifty! Every table gets one and got to choose how we split the bill. So easy. Every restaurant should have one. 

The end. Fin. 

¡Buen provecho!

what's in season?

Are you ever curious about why that asparagus bunch looks all shrivelled up in November, but long, green and luscious in April...?
It's all about what's in season!

A lot of times, we're so used to popping over to the local supermarket and expecting every single one of the ingredients to "that recipe I just found," to be on display. Well, all those fruits and veggies shouldn't be on full display ALL the time.

More and more, people are advocating the "Local food" movement- and it all starts with identifying what's in season. This will likely guarantee that those strawberries or parsnips have not been shipped thousands of miles or frozen in order to be conserved longer. Because we've all become so used to having EVERYTHING readily available, most of us are not used to thinking or knowing when produce should be in season. Well people, it's time to start learning!

I stumbled upon this extremely useful site, and spent more time that I'd like to admit, exploring Massachusetts' seasonal offerings. I learned a lot.
Take a look here... one of my fave websites of all time :

http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/seasonalcooking/farmtotable/seasonalingredientmap

What do you think? Did you already know some of the different vegetables' and fruits' peak seasons?

Tea for two! Two for tea!

I think we should make afternoon tea a part of everyday life. Sitting, chatting, and for a few minutes (or more like an hour); you look at the person in front of you, and talk. All while eating delicious sweet and savory treats, and letting the warm and fragrant tea soothe whatever part of life is aching at that moment.

It's a perfect concept. Food therapy, I might even venture to call it.

One of the trips I've most enjoyed in my life is my short tour of the South of England with a good friend whose family welcomed me and were eager to have me try all the local flavor. It was August, 2012- the summer breeze and easy strolls across the beautiful landscape made for an unforgettable getaway.

While on a day excursion to Bath, Lucy and I made our way to the Grand Pump Room, part of the Abbey Church Yard and home to Roman Baths, where spring water still fills the long and regal bath rooms, and my destination of choice: their beautifully classy and serene restaurant serving the best tea display I've ever had. (Which I hope is a good compliment, since I've only had real English afternoon tea a few times in my life.)

The Pump Room Museum's one key characteristic is the often smelly sulphuric waters. The water is so rich in minerals (and equally rich in its "eggy" taste) that the restaurant is able to serve some of the water to patrons who request it, directly from the source. It was warm, murky, and not so delicious- but I was told it was good for me, so I did not hesitate drink up!

The highlight of the day was the full afternoon tea display that my friend and I enjoyed. Behold the deliciousness:

Savory at the botton, scones, clotted cream and jam in the middle. At the very top lie the sweetest treats in the trio. I loved the finger sandwiches!

Since coming back to the United States, I have tried to find imported clotted cream. And I have, but it's expensive of course. And it has not tasted so delicious and fresh as the one pictured here for example. Look at how thick and luscious it looks. I split the scone, doused it with some jam and put a very healthy heap of clotted cream on the very top. For those of you who have not tried clotted cream, let me try to describe it to you as a cross between whipped cream and BUTTER. The consistency is thick, but it melts so easily after a bite. The mild sweetness and starchiness of the scone is such a good companion to the tea (I added milk, but not sugar) Simply glorious!

As a side note: I have heard two very different pronunciations of the word scone. One rhymes with gone and the other rhymes with tone. 

You decide which you prefer. In the UK, I've heard it's a matter of region and dialect. 

I have found a few places that serve a decent afternoon tea in the US... I'm sure there a ton! I have   yet to discover them all in my vicinity. Here is one such valiant effort. Though I have my doubts concerning the clotted cream they served...

But as you can see, the display was lovely! My mom and I enjoyed the wide selection of teas at the Rowe's Whaf Sea Grille. It was a relaxing afternoon, a few hours of good conversation sand tasty morsels. That is after all what a leisurely tea time in the afternoon is all about...